Hello…
For some reason I’ve forgotten how to post a picture through editing.Ok got it now.
Copy and paste routine.Anyway…
I have this bow within a few weeks of tillering.Handle overall is 1 foot long including fades.V splice type.My question is about the security of the handle fade while tillering.Overall thickness at fade is 14 MM…4MM of horn/4MM of sinew/and6 MM of wood core.
Should this hold up when flattening the bow on the peg board?Or will it need some sinew wrapping?I much rather like the cleaner no wrapping look myself.I’m not sure sinew wrapping would be enough anyway to make any difference.
Sinew runs along side the handle over the splice,but not along the limbs with this bow.Is that secure enough also?
Being a hunting bow of 50#'s or less I feel it will not be all that stressed.
To me it looks really secure!
Original turkish bows have quite steep taper around the handle and that also works. Like this bow here from new york Met museum:
One important thing with the handle tapering is to make sure there is enough thickness at the arrow pass area, which you do. If this is overlooked, then there would be quite excessive bending.
Thanks for the oversee…It should hold up ok then…Anyone sqweemish about breaking bows has not made enough of them I figure.
I try to form fit my handles to my hand while shaping with a feeling of control of the bow,but not overly much to torque in any way.Just a rocking motion in the hand more or less.
The forward handled constructed overall bow weight is well over an ounce less [closer to 2 ounces] than any conventional handled bow.Not all the loss where it’s important but still to a degree.
I can’t claim any name for this type bow,but just know that they perform in the parameters that I like and are pleasant to use and shoot.56.5" NTN.
The thickness of arrow pass I like around 20 to 22 MM which usually always holds up for me.
That should be enough thickness, although not a lot.
In Adam’s book he lists the measurements of a average 47" target bow from top kapi. Its drawing (by his estimate) 60-70# at 28". Handle has max thickness of 33mm and width of 24mm. Arrow pass is 22mm thick and 21mm wide.
I also very much like the turkish grip. It makes a lot of sense to make the bows like this, especially for quick manouvering and handling when riding a horse or such. Modern target archers would add lead as a weight to these kind of handles! Hah.
Measurements on my handle are above those listed by Adam.My arrow passes are as narrow as safely possible though.All in the process of getting it as close to centershot as possible.
I shoot denser and stiffer wood arrows then with more weight for maximum penetration.
I’ve heard of the tactic here by one bow maker of adding weight or even lead to a handle to reduce handshock.Maybe because of thinner limbs of FG…?Something I’ve never needed to use though.
I use narrower but thicker limbs [-1.25"] on my bows.Not thinner and wider.Thicker is quicker mantra.
With a foot long handle on this bow compared to 8 to 10 inch handles on conventional handled bows I doubt if anything is felt in the hand.Although the total length on my bow is pushing it,but feel it’s still the middle of the road type length.
Usually a slight thump at the end of the draw especially on static recurves.None on working recurves.0 sustained vibration on either.Fast flight strings always also.
Of course I shoot 8 grain or higher arrows also.
Shooting a couple turkish 46" bows at a shoot once did enlighten me on the definition of dead in the hand release…ha ha.
Oh cool, so same idea.
The added weight in handle helps with accuracy. Competition recurves all have some weight added somewhere. In classes that don’t allow stabilisation rods, they add lead/steel inside the riser. Like in modern “longbows”. It really works, i’ve tried them myself.
When i’ve personally shot so many years with zero handshock turkish bows, its really hard to go and use longer bows. I dislike the clumsy feeling handshock makes! Hah.
All other things being equal in thickness and width the added length to Adams’ 47" bow of 8" to 55" to 56" reduces draw weight 15 to 20 #'s to around 50#'s.There’s many ways to skin a cat getting to where you want.
I see your point and see it here also for some if they shoot with an olympic straight up and down style.Compounders also.
Even wind can affect them they say.
I shoot partially bent over and canted,but from a good stabilized platform of stance with my core in control of my steadiness.
In a stand I need to be ready to shoot from different positions.