High reflex flightbows

I decided to just go for it and increase reflex. Well Ivar was the devil recommending it!!
Guess i really need to do my best now to keep them from failing.
3pcs extreme (106-108cm)
3pcs “normal” (108-112cm)

And few target bows. Recycled horn in some and new horn in some. All pieces of wood are maple.

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that’s what I call proper core… they all in Maple?

Thanks, yes all my harvested maple. All grips are maple too but there is few with kiln dried plank maple handles.

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all we got are kiln dried Maple plank here in Indonesia… that’s way I’m using bamboo, it’s abundant and readily although must utilize separate part for the siyah… I’ve read somewhere in old Atarn forum that traditionally, all Ottoman bow always in 3 parts, that might what ideal for this model… but I’ve seen some senior hornbowyers use 5 parts in their build…

There is some local limitations… However what i’ve heard, kiln dried wood isn’t that bad. Buying wood is another cost yeah, and many times cutting your own lets you source the wood better.
I actually have plans to make one/two bows out of kiln dried, just out of interest.

Its true turkish and tatar bows were 3-part bows, but there is no harm using 5 pieces. :slight_smile: No need to be overly strict about it.

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I started sinewing. Here is some stats, mass, length ntn along belly and thickness at kasan eye.

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Do you sell them or they are all for you ? :smiley:

No, i don’t sell. I just want to make a lot of bows to get them perfect.
Maybe it doesn’t make sense, but i don’t let it bother me. :smiley:

It does make sense, more like my approach which is making my first bow perfect. If it’s not finished and it doesn’t have gold decoration then it’s hard for me to start another project.

Heh, i wouldn’t like to be that strict either. :smiley: This is a craft that demands a lot of expertise. Sometimes people struggle, because they don’t try new stuff and are too afraid to fail. Sometimes people try too much and can’t follow basic rules.
It goes with every hand craft that the hands learn to shape over a long period of time. It impossible to achieve such complex shapes as in a hornbow just over night. I always start new bows during autumn and every year i look back at my old bows and shake my head!!!

Little update:

Bows are pretty much sinewed. Only some targetbows left. And i’m getting anxious! :smiley: Its -15 degrees and 35% humidity even when i have the humidifier on inside… Next weekend i might just make a humidifier box which will help the opening of bows.

I took some measurements of this 110cm flight bow. Its in Finnish language, but i think you get the idea anyway. +5, +10, +15 is centimeters.

Sinew job, buffalo back sinew 25-30% glue vs 20% glue. Quite big difference? Thin glue is not enough, strands come up immediately if its scraped even a little. I took off the 20% layers and started from beginning…

Few layers.

All 3-4 layers done.

Light target bow i decided to experiment with. Ridiculously thin horn, maybe 3mm? And if the bow survives it will be maybe 45#. Tepeliks went on just fine, we’ll see. Limb thickness is just a little over 10mm at kasan eye and 118cm length.
I think the humidity is not overly bad if everything is made correctly.

I had first bows just braced. Shape seems ok in these somewhat thicker bows. When thickness is less, apparently i cant estimate proportions to get kasan eye work better. Therefore few of the bows need extra sinew layers.

So in total, its promising for Istanbul competition!

This bow landed at 91# @27". However… when it came time to shoot flight, it was so dry weather that it cut sinew in the sal’s. I had to add new layer.

Here is another 110cm bow, 88# @27". This i’m taking to Istanbul. Might be the best choice at shooting since its “heavy” weight, stabile, doesn’t stack bad etc.

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