New guy here. I’m attempting to make my first hornbow. Ive seen tons of videos on YouTube, but what I’m trying to figure out is how does one go about shaping the core without violating the growth rings on the back of the bow? Given shape of the core it looks like one would violate the growth rings. Especially if the rings arent symmetrical with the others. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Welcome!
You dont need to worry about violating growth rings at all. Zero.
Everyone tillers their hornbows fom the back so it will evidently happen. Sinew will take care of the tension and wood core will be fine.
Just like Jere said! I use sugar maple planks, sawn to correct dimensions (about 18 x 35 mm), which I plane before bending. Of course you should use good quality plank - decent grain orientation, no knots, cracks or other defects.
Thank you, gentlemen! I appreciate that very much. I’ve been making self bows for a long time now and wanted to try my hand at making a Turkish style horn bow. However, I have never violated growth rings on the back because it would be a death sentence to an otherwise great bow. Many thanks!
No problem. Share some of your progress here when you get going!
One other quick question: has anyone ever used hickory? That’s what I’m using and i haven’t heard of anyone using hickory before.
Yes lots of times but with longer horn bows 52" to 60" or so.Never a problem.I use very thin ringed hickory that has a density of .70 to .75.
I really think they will hold up in any shorter version also.
I’ll say this if ash is being used I am certain hickory can as hickory is denser while being more elastic.Some say it is semi ring pourus.Looking at it you can tell.
I tried elm once also.More ring pourus but with interlocking grain.My elm is more elastic yet than hickory.I had quite the wild cat of a hornbow on my hands when tillering it,but that’s all a part of making horn bows.
You will notice that when first bracing horn bows.As soon as they settle in they are ok.They need more time and conditioning than self bows,but the benefits are nice.
Thanks a bunch, BowEd. I’ve got a lot of different types of hickory and Elm down here in Louisiana. The only raw materials that will cost me in funds are the actual horn/s. Everything thing else is free except for time.
Good for you.Have fun.Show us your progress.Let me know if you find a good place for the preferred water buffalo horn.It’s getting expensive.I’ve made a number of laminations from gemsbok horn.A lot of filing,ripping,and heating and flattening is involved with that though too,just like using water buffalo horn.
If you have hard maple growing there you might want to try that too.
I wish there was maple here.
Guys, and/or ladies, I know I’m asking a lot of questions, and I apologize for that. Does anyone know where i could find decent hide glue and/or isinglass glue? Preferably something that won’t cost an arm and a leg? I certainly appreciate any recommendations.
This forum is intended for questions!
About glue, Google will tell you… Hide glue is so simple and basic stuff that almost every hide glue you find from internet is suitable as long as it is light-colored. Darker glues tend to be bad in view of bow making.
I have ordered from
- https://www.dictum.com/ (hide glue and isinglass glue available).
- https://bjornhideglue.com/ (hide glue)
- https://www.kremer-pigmente.com/ (every type of natural glues)
As soon as you strip enough sinew scraps will accumulate also.You can make your own glue then too.
A person can manipulate the gelling time on hide and sinew glue by sinewing a bow in a nice warmer enviornment.Say…80 degrees F.
Lots to learn from scratch unless you’ve sinewed self bows before.That would help.
BowEd, I have sinewed multiple self bows, but the techniques I’ve used weren’t quite the same as what I’ve seen making composite horn bows. Not to mention the deer sinew I have is all fairly short compared to what I’ve seen being used in horn bow construction.
My hide glue (recent batch) was bought from Italy, “restauro-online” webshop. Apparently and unfortunately they have shut down the webshop.
I’ve used Fredrix canvas sizing glue before with good success.Some think it might be oily but it is’nt.Light amber color when using it.1 pound for $30.00 USD.It is in a granulated form in a plastic tub.Etsy sometimes shows it for sale.
Do not buy the hide glue in a bottle stuff as it has vinager in it to delay the gelling.Get the real stuff with no additives.
Yes, BowEd, I’d only use the authentic stuff.
Another question: about how long of a piece of buffalo horn would I need to make an asiatic/Turkish composite bow?
You only need horn up to middle of kasan. So really short will do. 40cm would be plenty for short turkish bow. But this is a finished strip, not raw full horn. Raw horn maybe 50cm?
Thank you, JNystrom.
How would one go about making a tendiyek for compressing the horn to the core?